Ingredient Spotlight: Peptides

person Tama Gearhart
calendar_today Jan 21, 2024
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You’ve likely heard of peptides and for good reason. Peptides are multifunctional actives that provide numerous benefits and can do great things for your skin.

But what exactly are they and how can your skin benefit from including them in your skincare routine?

Peptides are a large category of ingredients that have been around for years. They are a class of compounds consisting of short-chain amino acids, which are the building blocks of protein. In skincare, peptides play a crucial role in addressing various concerns related to aging, hydration and the overall health of your skin.

There are five categories of peptides that are most commonly used in skincare formulations. They each have differing properties that provide numerous benefits to your skin.

Signaling peptides, also known as palmitoyl pentapeptides, send messages to the skin that can stimulate the promotion of collagen, elastin and other vital proteins needed to maintain skin’s firmness and fullness. We use the Matrixyl brand synthetic peptide along with Argireline in our Youth in Bloom collection. It’s one of the small handful of synthetic ingredients we use and we choose it because it’s so incredibly effective.

Enzyme-inhibitor peptides hinder the breakdown of collagen and elastin in the skin. They inhibit enzymes such as tyrosinase, responsible for dark spots, and matrix metalloproteinases that break down collagen. These actions help to slow down the natural breakdown of collagen and brighten a dull complexion.

Carrier peptides help deliver trace elements necessary for collagen synthesis. They act as facilitators to transport important elements such as copper and magnesium that contribute to skin repair and help to improve the structure of the skin. We use sweet lupine extract, a carrier peptide, in our Geranium & Lupine Eye Cream.

Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, such as Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide), reduce muscle contractions responsible for fine lines and wrinkles. These peptides block the release of chemicals that cause the muscle contraction of expression lines, thus helping to smooth the appearance of wrinkles. We use Argireline along with Matrixyl our Youth in Bloom collection. It’s one of the small handful of synthetic ingredients we use and we choose it because it’s so incredibly effective.

Now that you’re familiar with the peptides commonly used in skincare, let’s look at some of the great things they can do for your skin.

Collagen Production

Peptides are often associated with collagen synthesis. Collagen is a protein that provides structure to the skin. As we age, collagen production decreases, leading to wrinkles and a loss of firmness in the skin. Peptides can signal the skin to produce more collagen, helping to improve skin’s firmness and elasticity. Sweet lupine extract is a signaling peptide. Our Geranium & Lupine Eye Cream thickens, firms and smooths the delicate skin around our eyes.

The Blue Sapphire Concentrated Brightening Oil does the same for the rest of our face, neck and chest. Tip- use it on the backs of your hands as well to keep that skin from becoming think and wrinkly.

Pro-Aging Properties

Peptides have properties that can help improve the signs of aging skin. Helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, they can also contribute to the overall rejuvenation of the skin, promoting a more youthful and radiant complexion.

Hydration

Peptides are known for their ability to improve skin’s hydration. They can help the skin retain moisture, leading to a smoother and plumper appearance. Improved skin hydration is essential for maintaining healthy and resilient skin. Blending peptides with hyaluronic acid and ceramides in our products makes them even more effective.

Reduced Inflammation

Peptides have anti-inflammatory properties, making them suitable for individuals with sensitive or irritated skin. They can help soothe the skin and alleviate redness and inflammation.

While peptides can be beneficial for many people, the key to using them successfully is to find the product type that best suits your skin and needs.

Peptides are most effective when combined with other beneficial ingredients.
Look for well-formulated products that include peptides, hyaluronic acid , antioxidants and ceramides along with other beneficial ingredients. This will enhance their effectiveness and your skin will be better for all the goodness.

Are Peptides Natural?

Most of the peptides in skincare are synthetic, created in a lab by building amino acid chains or breaking down proteins. Synthetic peptides were the only ones commonly available on the market twenty years ago. Fortunately, the massive surge in popularity of natural products over the last couple decades has fueled research into natural sources and several effective plant-based peptides have been found.

Natural Peptides in aos Skincare:

Pea Peptide, derived from peas (Pisum Sativum), has skin-lightening, skin-smoothing, & pro-aging properties. It contains vitamin B3 (niacinamide). Skin cells treated with pea extract produce less melanin providing lighter and brighter skin.

Visibly reduces dark spots and hyperpigmentation
Lightens overall skin tone for a more uniform complexion
Evens texture for healthier, flawless looking skin

Lupine Extract is an anti-aging and firming ingredient that stimulates collagen synthesis, increasing elasticity and firmness in the skin, and helping to remodel the facial contour. It’s extracted from the coatings of sweet white lupin seeds from plants cultivated using sustainable agricultural practices in France.

Benefits:

Increases skin firmness and elasticity
Remodels the facial profile
Pro-aging

Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a cutting edge, probiotic peptide and preservative derived from radishes fermented with leuconostoc kimchii; a lactic acid bacteria that has traditionally been used to make kimchi. It acts as a natural preservative, plus, it may benefit oily skin by purifying the skin’s surface. We add it to the Yarrow & Willow Bark BHA Toner, Apple Chamomile Cleansing Gel and Apple Stem Cell Radiance Serum.